There are about 23,000 different best ways of cooking chips on t’internet, but I especially enjoyed the article on the Observer Food Monthly blog, which is a wonderful paean to the deep-fat fryer, and the discussions at PistonHeads.

Today I cooked a 3 course Valentine’s supper for @gwithiansunset. This was the menu:

On arrival
Filthy large Plymouth Gin & Tonic
ice, lime, Angostura bitters

Starter
Spicy prawn cocktail

Taittinger Champagne

Main course
Grilled sardines and real chips

Pudding
Chocolate mousse with brandy, grated white chocolate & whipped cream

Here’s the thinking. First up, the prawn cocktail. I really had a hankering for a prawn cocktail the other day, so I decided to satisfy the yearning. I shredded iceberg lettuce in a large glass, soused in lime juice. I then tossed the prawns in the dressing Nigella uses on crab in the Valentine’s Day chapter of Feast – fresh ginger, lime juice, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, wasabi, a few drops of sesame oil. I didn’t use enough ginger or wasabi – will put that right next time. I then dusted the prawns with cayenne pepper. I used tail-on prawns – so she had to get her fingers all sticky. More sensuous, see?

The main course of sardines & chips doesn’t sound that romantic, but it’s one of her favourite meals, a throwback to summers in Portugal before the kids were born. I par-boiled the chips for about 5 minutes, and deep-fried them at 180c for about another 5. They were certainly cooked but could have been crisper. I think I should have fried them for longer at a higher temperature. The kids, however, loved them and said they tasted like “real chips” – unlike the home-made oven chips we usually do.

The chocolate mousse pudding was from the BBC web site – it was lovely. I used brandy – not enough as it turned out, and I grated Green & Blacks white organic chocolate over the mousse and under the whipped cream. Couldn’t taste the brandy. Something else to put right next time. More wasabi, crispier chips – and more brandy. They did taste like proper chips, though.

bouquet from You Don’t Bring Me Flowers

• Whole bulb of garlic, unpeeled
• 2kg lamb, trimmed & cut into 5cm pieces. The recipe calls for leg but I wonder if cheaper cuts would work.
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 400g tin of tomatoes (or 6 plum tomatoes)
• 1 tablespoon tomato puree
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon dried mint
• juice of 1 and a half lemons
• chips!

Simmer the garlic bulb whole in water for 15-20 minutes. When soft, drain and dry; squeeze each clove into a pestle & mortar and squish.

Heat the oil in a large pan, fry the lamb until browned on all sides. Add tomatoes, tomato puree, herbs and garlic. Season with salt & pepper. Add enough water to cover stew and simmer for about 90 mins or 2 hours until lamb tender and sauce thick. Add the lemon juice in the last 15 minutes of cooking – the lemon juice really cuts through the greasiness of the lamb.

Serve with chips / French fries.

From Issue 2 of the excellent Jamie Magazine.

-o-

Lamb Lagoto Redux

Diced lamb is devilishly expensive, so tonight I tried to make this with lamb shanks instead. It was a huge success.

before going in the oven

Follow the method above, but use 2 lamb shanks and 2 tins of chopped tomatoes. Brown the shanks in a casserole dish, add all the ingredients and put in an oven at about 170 degrees C for a couple of hours. The meat just fell away from the bones and melted in the mouth.

I also cracked chips tonight – I can honestly say my chips were better than chip shop chips. I cut big, thick chips – cooked them for about 10 mins until soft on the lowest heat of my deep fat fryer (approx 160 C), put them in the freezer for half an hour then cooked them until golden in the fryer on its hottest setting (190 C). Crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside – and not at all greasy. Perfect!

My deep fat fryer has been banished to the shed, so a stew like this is a very welcome thing on a cold night working down the smallest, coldest chippy in SE London.

after being in a low oven for a few hours